You will need to rent a concrete cutter. A cement mixer is optional; hand mixing in a wheel barrel will work just fine. Make sure you mix the concrete a little on the loose side to make sure it flows under the drain channel and comes up both sides. LTEC recommends four inches of concrete on all three sides for commercial applications.
A good measurement is one bag of 2/3 cubic foot Ready Mix (50 lb. sack) per foot. That may leave a bag or two to return at the hardware store, but it’s better to have too much than run out on your job.
Make two cuts at 12″ wide for the width of your driveway, which is the minimum. But if your driveway is uneven or in bad shape you can cut wider to create a more even surface area with the concrete; sometimes wider is better.
Place two strips of masking tape 12″ apart for the full width of your driveway.
You want a square trench seven inches deep from the top of the surface. The reason for that is concrete needs to be square in this application for maximum strength. The top of the drain will set at one half inch below grade; the bottom of the channel will set four inches off the bottom of the trench for concrete.
Yes, the grates have a shrink wrap plastic on them to give a protective layer while you pour the concrete. Installing the wrapped grates before pouring the concrete will make your clean up very easy, as they will keep the concrete out of the drain channel, and will keep the grates clean as well.
Nope, this is a major problem with other drain designs because of the volume of material used to achieve strength which displaces more area. With our drain you do not have to tie down, hang, or install installation hardware of any kind — simply set it in the trench and pour your mud. Need More Help? Contact Us ›
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